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Sunday, February 27, 2011

Kvindetrøje fra Fyn - 1775 - Woman´s Pullover from Funen

I have been looking forward to showing you this gorgeous pullover by Åse Lund Jensen and telling you the story about it.
The pattern is from 1970 bought as a kit at Frilandsmuseet, an open air museum, by a Danish woman, who knit the pullover it as part of her Danish national costume. She emigrated in the 1950ies to Canada, bringing her 7-year-old daughter with her. This daughter is now a Canadian, and also a raveller and thanks to Ravelry, we have come across.
Knowing my interest in historic knitting, she offered me the Nattrøje pattern and I was really thrilled. The yarn brand ÅLJ is still available in a knitting store in my town, so I just followed the pattern exactly as written. It was an easy knit. I just had to hit the gauge, for me it was on needle size 2½ mm,
The original color was red, however this color is discontinued and I chose an anthracite gray.
The construction is based on a Nattrøje from 1775 from the Danish National Museum.
For more than 150 years this woolen pullover was a part of the clothes worn daily by Danish rural women.Over a linen shirt, under a waistcoat. Knit in wool by professionals they were an imitation of the nobles´silk shirts.
Fashion changed and gradually from 1850 it became a full dress, a national costume, worn Sundays and for celebrations.
Nowadays the costume is worn by people who is interested in maintaining old Danish folk dance.
The knit designer Åse Lund Jensen was trained as a dressmaker in Haute Couture ,which is obvious looking at this tailored piece.
Åse Lund Jensen died in 1977 only 57 years old. She had met Marianne Isager, a talented young knit designer in 1973 and left her all her works and Marianne continued her work of making knitting an art form.
Many of Marianne Isager´s designs are based on Åse Lund Jensens work. This model, 77, is built on the same 1775 model and can easily be added some of the Nattrøje patterns.(Only in Danish)

My pattern is personal. However, there are several options if you want to knit an old Danish Nattrøje.
Uuve Snidare: Fiskertrøjer og andre klassiske trøjer. Her book is available in Swedish, Danish, and German. Search the library.
 Vibeke Lind :Strik med nordisk tradition Danish and English, also library stuff.
Why these two books are not republished is a mystery to me.
And of course Beth Reinsel- Brown´s Nattrøje sweater from Interweave Press
 If you have 1½ minutes to spare, look at this dance. For me it looks like knitting and weaving. Can you also see the purls?

11 comments:

  1. Why not ask the museum if this pattern can be published, so it can be spread to a broader audience then just you......

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  2. Oooh, I am with Tineke! I would love to knit something like this one! Just the thought of the originality is exciting!
    And why Vibeke Lund and the other lady is not available today is a big mystery! Living in Germany, I just can't go to the library :-(

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  3. Ooh, I am with Tineke, I would love to knit this one. Here is a link to a flickr picture of mine http://www.flickr.com/photos/tusnelda/4937657808/in/set-72157624707055337/
    Living in German, I just can't go to the library to borrow Vibeke Lund :-(

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  4. That sweater is gorgeous. It looks very modern. I have Vibeke Lind's book - it's a real treasure. I try to buy well researched books like that when I find them because they tend to disappear. Thanks for sharing this.

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  5. Jeg falt pladask for denne skjønne natt-trøyen. Jeg skulle gjerne ha strikket den. Den ser veldig moderne ut, egentlig.
    Jeg må nok undersøke på biblioteket om jeg kan få tak i boken fra Vibeke Lund.
    Jeg hadde veldig stor glede av å lese artikkelen din :-)
    Takker for informasjon.

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  6. I think your blog is very interesting- and would like to buy the pattern for the nattrøje too- if it ever will be possible!

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  7. Beautiful sweater, Very stylish!
    I hope it becomes available sometimes. I would like to knit it!! You have really a great friend^^)!
    ym

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  8. Beautiful! I especially like that it does indeed look like a silk under-blouse from the medieval times!! I would love to make this in a thin silk yarn, and incorporate a personal pattern across the bodice. How fun! I just purchased Isager's book on your influence and hope to make some of her traditional patterns.

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  9. Translate it, dear! I really LOVE the shaping, Your work as always is immaculate!

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  10. PS Mette,

    There's another nattroje in Susanne Pagold's book entitled "Nordic Knitting." I can't find it on Ravelry so can't share a photo, but I still like your version the best!

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  11. Kvindetröjen är fantastisk! Jag hoppas att någon ger ut Åse Lund Jensens beskrivningar igen för hon var verkligen en duktig designer.

    Det var roligt att du hänvisade till Marianne Isagers Model 77 - den finns på min lista över saker jag sticka, garn och beskrivning är redan inköpt!

    Hälsningar från Anna i Sverige
    http://anneshus.wordpress.com

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